Lamellar armor has been widely used thought history. It currently is highly prized within the SCA for its versatility and protection.
The particular historical inspiration for this piece comes from the Yuan Dynasty of Mongolia 1271-1368. Being that we live in the “Modern Middle Ages” however; I have taken certain creative license in its design and crafting.
The overall construction is of 250 + wax hardened leather lames. The leather itself is of 11 to 13oz saddle skirting. I use a special mixture of waxes to raise the melting temperature to about 190 degrees. This renders the leather exceptionally hard while maintaining rigidity in hot weather. It also prevents the wax from weeping out of the leather under these conditions. The lames are laced with solid core woven nylon lacing with each lame overlapping 4 other lames. This design is both beautiful as well as offering exceptional protection. This configuration of lames results in an armor that is a minimum ½ inch thick.
Lamellar normally is left slack and flowing. This particular design however offers a ridged chest plate giving superior protection and support for the woman fighter. This torso is fashioned over a yoke that resembles a corset constructed of 13oz leather. Exacting measurements are required for an ideal fit. The goal is to cover all inflexible areas of the body with a close fitting rigid armor skin. This close fit also serves the purpose of supporting the majority of the weight on the ribs and chest. Care must be taken to allow for free breathing without constriction. Loose and flowing lames then cover the flexible areas of the body giving the warrior a full range of motion. A single thin (action back) strap crosses the shoulders and crisscrosses the back providing for a full range of motion in the shoulders and upper arms.
The skirt is attached by the use of flexible strip of elk hide. This attachment offers the same degree of protection while allowing for deep squats and kneeling.
The entire torso, back and skirt folds up into a clam shell looking package that fits well inside a standard Do bag or gym bag.
Finally the aesthetic have been specifically design to allow for a beautiful feminine appearance without shouting to the world that you are a woman fighter.
Photos:
The following is an excellent reference to the armour of this period.
Of particular note:
Look at the helmet construction and the attachment of lames… amazing!
http://chinese-armour.freewebspace.com/photo.html
That’s one of the most beautiful pieces of armour I’ve ever seen. One, possibly stupid question, though. The way you’ve done the solid breast protection with a gap in it looks like bending the wrong way could lead to pinching. Does the lamelar lacing on top of it prevent this, or am I just being paranoid?
This is the most beautiful peace of female armor i have ever seen.
it is very flattering and even kind of sexy with out being vulgar and still leaves allot up to the imagination. most of female amor i have seen would either not made for wemon with breasts or in most movies or magazines or games is the barley there armor.the kind that relies on the bear cleavage to distract the apponent. i love this armor and would have no problems lletting my wife or daughter wear it.
Can you possibly send me some info on how you made the Leather Ridged? I have used Wax, as well as brewers pitch, but neither stand up to hot sun.. It gets squishy. Does yours do this? If not can I have the recipie?
My apologies I just went up on the website this morning and found these very kind posts: Since returning from Gulf Wars (what a blast) I have been fully plunged into the mundane world.
Lillith: No, not paranoid at all and your observation and question is well founded. In fact the solid breast was the biggest concern and took the most design to get it right. In short the gap is in place only to present a foundation for the lames. This under-corset defines the shape and size of the cup. The lames are then shaped and laced to this structure leaving no gap. The picture was taken in progress prior to these lames being fully formed and laced. At its completion each lame overlaps and is supported by three other lames leaving a very ridged chest with no gap to catch or pinch. The only reason for wearing a gambeson or tunic is to protect the skin from the rough leather and laces. I would suggest a light weight tunic under.
Lady Caoilinn inghean Caoimhín Ó Tighe:
I would be honored to work with you and share any knowledge I have gained over the years. Please drop me an email and I will endeavor to help. The rigidity of the leather is a factor of three primary aspects.
• The first and foremost is the design of the armor itself. If you want it to remain rigid it must be supported by the surrounding material. It also should be convex. Obviously women’s armor lends itself to this quiet well.
• The second factor is the hardening compound itself. I use a mixture of 75% Carnauba wax and 25% high temperature taper wax. It must be wax designed for making thin wax tapers. To this I add some slow curing epoxy resin for further strengthening. Your brewers pitch would most likely do the same thing as the resin and is period as well. I would be interested in experimenting with it. The problem with the resin is that it obviously does not “dissolve” nor does it penetrate the surface of the leather deeply so use it sparingly.
• Thirdly Use acid tanned leather. You can tell easily by looking at the edge of the leather where it has been cut. It should be tan in color through. If it is dark grey it will never harden as this leather is specifically tanned to remain soft and supple.
When you are done melting and mixing the wax substance it should melt at around 190 degrees. If placed in a double boiler it takes a long time to melt in boiling water and should always remain cloudy as it is right on the verge of solidifying. Add the resin at the last moment before you begin soaking your leather.
Pre-heat the leather in the oven to 200 degrees. This will allow the wax to fully penetrate the leather. If you drop cool leather into your mixture the wax will solidify on the leather without fully penetrating.
Soak the leather until no bubbles or foam emanates from them.
Remove the leather and allow cooling slowly. I like to place the leather in the direct sun to slow the process. I use an old towel to remove the excess wax at this point.
I wait to finish the edges of the lames and to drill the holes for lacing until this point as the leather is much easier to drill, punch and skive.
As a Side Note:
Unless I am mistaken, leather historically was hardened using tree pitch or other tar like substances. This hardening was done to keep the leather from being sliced by an edged weapon. Purely wax hardened leather like this is cut like butter with a sharp knife. The tar created a sticky hard armor that was not easily sliced, rather it would stick to the blade as it attempted to penetrate. Notice how much easier the leather is worked after it is “hardened.”
At your service
Aden the Outlands Barony of Dragon Spine
aocken@corvirtus.com
In your opinion is this leather piece more or less breathable than a similar metal plate lamellar?
In your opinion is this armor more or less breathable than a metal plate lamellar of similar design?
Hmph. Well thats embarrassing, please disregard my double post.
I would say it breaths roughly the same, however it does not transfer nearly the amount of heat as does metal. I have noticed that it is cooler to wear than a ridged metal chest. The construction is more similar to ridged metal since the lames themselves are stitched tightly.
The need for painstaking measurements cannot be over emphasized. A proper fit will allow the warrior to fully breath expanding the chest and stomach rapidly while still holding much of the weight up off the shoulders. This can only be done with a construction that stretches a fraction of an inch on each lame. Normal lamellar ends up resting the majority of its weight on the shoulders and belt.
Wonderful information, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Do you think this armor is well suited for Rapier fighting? I’m incredibly interested in crafting a similar piece of armor for myself, but have no experience working leather. At what points of my torso do you recommend taking measurements?
I was wondering that myself regarding the rapier.
I would suggest cutting back the weight of the leather to probably 6 to 8 oz leather.
If you can find a pattern for a corset that fits you well and gives the support you require start there with building the Yoke. This yoke should be rigidly crafted to fit you in all the places you DO NOT BEND.
First Take measurements of you upper chest above your bust line from the midpoint of your chest.
With arms to your side
And with arms exaggeratedly folded in front of you.
You must accommodate for Full Range of motion.
If you can do so make a mock up of the upper chest of stiff cardboard. This will allow you to modify the chest pattern and discover if it hinders your movement.
Second measure for the line of your lower ribcage. The rigid yoke should stop about 1 inch above your last set of ribs. The lames will be attached from this point downward in a lose fashion allowing you full range of motion from the waist. This is where men and women are very different as well. You should also have full range of motion to each side. If you could touch your toes before you should be able to now.
More to come:
If you are interested in an ongoing dialogue please email me and we can chat better.
The amazing thing about hardened leather like this is that it heals itself well. When it get scratched up all you need do is take a heat gun to it and then rub the leather. After much hard use simply reapply the wax mixture after heating up the leather.
Hi,
This is great armor! I just got authorized a couple of weeks ago. I have a talented & supportive husband who is helping me make my own armor. I have several specific questions: How did you do the back? Is it laced up? How are the arms attached? Do the legs use the same type of lames ot give them a similar appearance? Thanks!
Congratulations on your authorization. Well done on making your own armor.
I truly am honored by your kind words and would love to help you achieve your goal.
I will try to get some pictures of the back up here on the site.
You can see a few of the system of straps that attach the front.
The two most important factors when it comes to straps are:
1) This armor is designed to put the majority of the weight across the chest and top of the hips. Your straps should NOT rest weight on your shoulders. And should allow you to adjust so that the weight is distributed as much as possible. This is done by placing the straps so that when tightened, bare up the weight by constricting select areas of the chest. It should at the same time NOT constrict your breathing. Discover the parts of your body that expand as you are breathing under exertion and allow these areas the room they need to expand. A good rule of thumb is to put more straps than you think you need.
2) In as far as it is possible to do so, cross your straps in an X pattern. This will allow great range of motion. ESPECIALY the straps that cross over the shoulders. This will allow your body to twist as you drop one shoulder during a strike.
The Back is constructed in the same fashion as the chest. It attaches via straps towards the top of the back. It hangs loosely allowing the maximum movement and is only held in place by floating straps that prevent any gaps from occurring. It hangs down over the tail bone and forms a “tail.” This tail is designed to interrupt a “Butt wrap”. Caution should be used to not allow it to hang TOO loosely.
In this particular case the shoulders attach to the gorget. This is truly a matter of preference. Some fighters hate having anything attached to the gorget. If this be the case straps would need to be attached to the top of the chest piece. Think about this attachment far in advance during the design. Historically this type of armor did have large shoulders attached. Arms and elbows are attached to the gambeson itself. Not the chest. This is also a personal choice. As your fighting improves you may opt to minimize the shoulders and upper arm. This is one of the main reasons for attaching to the gambeson and gorget.
The skirt offers a great deal of protection to the front and outside of the legs, however the inside of the thighs do need to be covered especially on the leading leg. This can be achieved with a leather upper leg with Lames attached and flowing on the inside of the thigh. With the knee attached. I would support this from your C belt.
Beautiful armor. I am currently working with my wife on designing a set of armor for her to fight heavy here in Glenn Abhan and your site is VERY helpful.
Well done Sean, I wish you all the best if I can assist you with any specifics I would be happy to.
I am working with several of the ladies from many kingdoms.
The plan now is to have a merchant booth and to teach A&S at Gulf Wars.
If you get to Gulf Wars please find me.
aocken@corvirtus.com
I have seen very many discussions of how to make leather armor. Yours is different.
The only suggestion I could make that might cause the deepest wax penetration would be to put the pot under a vacuum. Less air pressure lowers the boiling point however. So I am not sure what temperature to recommend. When I worked as a model maker we used a large thick walled [1/4"] commercial aluminum pot. On top of this the man had put a thick steel plate with a half inch polycarbonate [lexan] window over the hole he had cut for viewing. This was secured on top with silicone caulk only, all pressure being down. The bottom of the plate is sealed with a gasket of rubber adhered by either silicone or some other form of epoxy/cement. Then the pot was drilled and tapped a side hole for a pipe nipple and and tee fitting so a hose to be run to a vacuum pump. A vacuum-relief ordinary ball valve is attached to the other part of the t-fitting and kept closed when you begin de-airing. Placing the wax and the leather inside will de-air both at once and open all the hair cell voids. There should be a large bubble burp. Then cutting off the vacuum pump and opening the valve will allow air to repressurize the inside and FORCE the wax into all the pores deeply. Of course the pot is heated. The pump should probably draw about 5 cubic feet per minute if it is a large pot and you should leave room for expansion. Some things expand a
surprising amount under vacuum. I have seen resins expand nearly a
third I think before they burped the air/gases and collapsed down.
What heat is required you might ask a chemistry or physics major - we had both master’s degrees in one worker there. It was a shop making industrial prototype models, mostly for major electronics firms. We did RTV Rubber, Urethane and Epoxy Resins castings primarily originating and reproducing models for engineering departments. The chemist/physicist was Mr. Pat Knox of Raleigh, NC. I haven’t seen him in over 20 years now. You might ask if suddenly repressurizing hot wax might be a hazard. It shouldn’t blow the lid off as the inside pressure will only equalize with the outside pressure.
I am thinking of a possible ignition of the wax from the re-pressurizing.
[Submarines ignite inside before implosion.] Perhaps the right sort of fireman might know the answer.
I do not have a degree in physics/chemistry and I am unfamiliar with waxes. Those are not my strong points. I studied Industrial Arts Education for 5 years and was a multi-traded fabricator in plastics, furniture, architectural fittings, model making, commercial cabinetry, etc.
I do have over 2500 books on technical subjects, crafts and fabrication of all manner of items from fibers to metals and lapidary and experience or hobbies in about thirty crafts and trades.
BTW. Samurai armors were often made of lacquered rawhide as well as
cross-laminated wrought iron - which has grain. Thompson Conservatory/Caber Press sells a book on Urushi or Japanese Laquering.
I have a book written by a Japanese scholar during the Tokugawa Shogunate discussing armor and helmet making in detail and another sold by the Royal Armouries discussing rawhide use in Japanese armours.
- Magnus
Hi Aden, This is an awsome piece of armor - I am looking into joining the SCA soon and I wanted to know if this peice conforms as a chest peice in regards to being “Fully Armored” according to combat requirements? Or will I have to look at making a set of plate or chain instead?
Thanks.
allison.
*grin* I found it out today - Thanks Aden. It was most likely a silly question but I figured it out. It does meet the requirements. I should have figured or you wouldn’t have had it up here.
cheers.
allison
HI,
I am currently under the wing of a gentleman who is teaching me heavy fighting basics, and making my armor. We were curious about the weight factor. From what I’ve read, with the weight being worn on the hips and chest, how easy is it to wear weight wise? (versus mail or plate)
Reverently,
Prodi
Hi Prodi,
I’ve been waiting to see if the good Aden Oakwood is still around at the moment to check the messages here. As far as I can tell she’s not responded to notes since the summer, but I still check back on occasion for new posts.
I’m a beginning leatherworker myself and have some good guidance as well - my understanding about this piece is that the weight is mostly distributed across the chest and hips - that’s what makes Aden’s design so neat. You end up with less pressure across your shoulders and neck which can limit your flexibility in combat. The leather is, naturally, much lighter to wear so far as weight, but when you carry the weight on hips and chest (and women have hips so it’s well suited to us - forgive the pun) you reduce the mobility problems that carrying it on the shoulders causes. I’m not sure I would want the weight of plate or mail being carried on my hips and chest - that strikes me as being really hard on the knees - but with leather it’s ideal. The key, of course to any leg plates is the C-belt, so don’t forget to make that too.
Hope that helped a bit. Cheers.
Greetings Aden,
I am presently working with a trio of female fighters
who are interested in making armour similar the armour
on Sword Maiden.
They are leaning towards your style of armour.
I have to agree the armour looks great and more importantly, protective.
If possible, could you email me the plans for the armour and the size of the scales.
Thank you,
Nikolai Bearslayer
MKA Chris Dawson
Greetings:
I am sorry that I have not been responding.
My email has changed due to a new job.
Please contact me directly at:
alanjocken@hotmail.com
To Lady Prodi:
I find the weight issue to be very pleasant for me. I like to be fully unencumbered on the shoulders.
What I have done is created a False Waist or Hip for myself. Being rather barrel chested with no hips to speak of I have come to attaching my legs to a Back Packing belt that is padded and about ½ thick. I attache the legs via a bungie cord material allowing them to flex when I go to my knees. This belt also places all the weight from the chest and skirt onto the belt. The first day I showed up at Fighter Practice the marshal told me He would call hold as soon as he saw the armor around my knees… LOL
I fought all night without adjusting once. This allowed me to breath fully from my chest and from my stomach. I can gulp air as I need it.
I also took several GOOD shots from a two handed Great axe in the chest and sides with no damage to my person or the armor. It did not flinch at all. I felt the hit well but without pain.
A woman’s form is better for this type of design allowing for weight distribution across the chest as well as hips. Your C belt will carry most of the weight and your upper torso will also help.
I have been working on a new design to this armor using flexible lames around the edges allowing the warrior to fully hug themselves without binding or digging into the biceps and armpit.
Overall the weight is what you would expect from any Period type of material. I am toying with the idea of building the Yoke itself from Kydex and then attaching leather over it.
I have been looking at this armor and it is quite phenominal. I myself am new to the scene and am working on creating my first set of armor. The construction of the none-bending chest area is a wonderful inspiration. I do have a question, I have no idea how much comfort it is, I am sure it is of the highest that the design could give. However, would adding a soft foam like the foam from Jo-ann’s Fabric store to the lower inner part of the female bossom cups make it anymore comfortable? I have been mulling over the idea of how to give the utmost comfort to my armor while still following construction rules and allowing for mobility.
Thank you for your time and your answer will be greatly appreciated!
Arexandria Qailynn the Half-Elven
Hi,
This is an absolutely lovely piece of armor. My husband immediately agreed that it’d be a good set for me. So much of what I see is geared toward a less curvacious (though equally beautiful) body type. This could work well for me.
Do you think it would be practical for me as an archer? I do expect to do some heavy combat down the road as well, in combination with the archery. My husband is interested in rapier, and I wouldn’t mind being able to do that with him, at least to train. My thought is to go with 9/10 oz leather. I think reducing the weight I’m carrying will help make me more mobile. I’m small, and in my 40s. Then I’d need to add the other bits like helmet, gorget (there is a man in our Shire who makes excellent steel gorgets), knees etc. We can make a C-belt easily enough with what we have on hand.
We may come up with questions as we make this. We both have experience with leather work, and he’s got some making armor, but this will be new territory for us.
Thanks!
Caileigh
Greetings and many many questions! As a beginning fighter (and mom with two kiddos fighting) I am very green to this. I love the llamelar and have recently purchased plastic as opposed to the leather. My question is more about the assembly and undersupport. I want to be sure my daughter and I are properly (and comfortably) protected in all the places we need to be when fighting. She is 11 and I am 33. She is small, but developing fast. I am - well - rather thick waisted.=) I measure around 49 in the bust and 45 in the waist. 10″ underarm to waistline. I am ready to begin lacing the llames for the form of the armor itself, but if I have to attach it to under protection - as you have mentioned - I don’t want to find that out once I am halfway through and have to start over. I would be most upset. Please excuse the ignorance here - but as I said - I am very new. I do have a couple of male fighters who are helping me and one has leather llamelar - but male fighter needs are nto the same and he knew I would need additional chest protection but was vague about the what and how. I do not simply want to be a woman in armor. I wish to be a fighter (woman or otherwise should not matter!). And I wish to be a great fighter at that. I don’t want armoring difficulties to be an obstacle.
Thank you so very much for such a wonderful website and for any help you can offer.
Michelle - Gleann Ahbann
Is there a pattern for this anywhere, or maybe someone who could make it for me? It’s absolutely stunning.
May I ask what size leather plates did you use.
I am looking forward to starting something like this. As this is just what I am looking for. May I ask what the back looks like I cannot make it out. I hope to get your answer soon. I do not want to start it and then find out I am doing it wrong and have to take it apart. Thank you in advance for your help.
Maria S.
Simply amazing leather work. Where do you find the materials to make up this armor?